Over the past few years, the growing interest towards the perfume traditions of the Gulf and Levant regions has brought to light a hitherto unknown practice known as Layering. Consisting of combining several perfumes, it sprang from the fact that it was customary to combine several Attars in order to create a complex and unique sillage every day.

A fundamental part of the Arabian perfume ceremony, layering has gradually included “Western” perfumes. To some European perfumers however, layering implies that their fragrances – often the result of hundreds of modifications over years and including up to 200 ingredients – are incomplete.

Although understandable, this criticism stems from a certain ignorance of layering. Indeed, it is almost an art in itself, subject to a set of unspoken rules that subordinate its very existence to a single purpose: to sublimate, rather than improve, a work of art.

From this purpose, we can draw two guiding principles of layering: contrast and nuance.

Layering by contrast consists of superimposing the main fragrance with another that stands at the opposite end of the olfactory spectrum. This instinctive and synaesthetic work aims to give a certain three-dimensionality to the fragrance, giving it new perspectives, revealing new facets.

The now-classic accord of Oud and Rose is a prime example of layering by contrast, where the intense, animalic darkness of Cambodian Oud contrasts with the lemony, crystalline clarity of the Taif Rose.

More delicately, layering by nuance consists in isolating certain facets of the main fragrance and increasing them to give them more intensity, volume or radiance. This more technical approach requires a defter hand and a certain knowledge of perfume but has the merit of never altering the main fragrance.

Because they are so different to alcohol-based perfumes, Attars might at first seem intimidating. They are the quintessence of nature’s wonders and as such require reverence and parsimony. The Attar ritual, by the time it requires and the quietude it creates, is a profoundly soothing experience one can repeat every morning before heading to work, or every night before falling asleep.

To fully enjoy your Attar, you must wear it on your pulse points, where the skin sits closer to your arteries. This is crucial as Attars are devoid of alcohol, so will not evaporate and may give you a sense of lacking volume or projection. By applying them on your pulse points, it’s the heat generated by your blood flow that will give your Attar the warmth it needs to fully blossom.

The most common pulse points are the wrists and right below the ear – which you probably already knew – but these are lesser known pulse points might be beneficial.

INSIDE THE ELBOW

As with the wrists, applying your Attar here will make it bloom and subtly scent your grand gestures.

BEHIND THE KNEE

Only useful if you are wearing skirts or shorts, applying your Attar here will result in its fragrance constantly rising up as you walk or cross your legs.

TOP OF THE EAR

While behind the ear is more common, the outside rim of your ear is a better fit as it is slightly oilier, meaning the fragrance will last longer.

Apart from the pulse points, you may also apply your Attar in your hair, your beard, or as sometimes traditionally done, rub a drop of it along your chin or your nose.

Choose your favourite Attar. Using the dabber, gently apply a drop of Attar on your pulse point in a swift smear. Very gently dab your wrists together so as to wake the Attar up.

You may also apply a single drop of Attar to the tip of your finger, then dab your pulse points, without rubbing them. Should you have any Attar left on your finger, you may run your hand through your beard or your hair. Always apply your Attar on your skin.