Q. How do I know where to start learning to make candles?

A. We have a range of candle making kits that will help you learn how to make candles. If you are a beginner, we recommend purchasing one of our ultimate candle making starter kits: https://nzcandlesupplies.nz/collections/candle-making-kits. We also have starter packs available with all the essential tools you need for making candles: https://nzcandlesupplies.nz/products/starter-pack.

Q. Do you offer candle making classes?

A. We currently do not offer this service. We have many tutorial videos available on our website and social media platforms to assist you with your creations.

Q. Can colourants / mica powders be added to candles?

A. Yes! We have a range of candle dyes that can be added to candles made from any wax type. Mica powders can also be added to candles; however, they can only be added to wooden wick candles as the powder can clog our cotton and eco wicks.

Q. How much candle dye do you add into candles?

A. It's up to you how much you want to add to achieve your desired colour. To reach a deeper colour we recommend using 5g per 1kg of candle wax. We offer chips of candle dye rather than liquid. Make sure the dye is added in at around 60 degrees Celsius to melt into the wax without burning the candle dye. Mix this in throughout to avoid any dark patches of dye in the candle.

Q. Can mica powder be added to wax melts?

A. Yes mica powder works well in wax melts as there’s no wick that can be clogged. Mica added a lovely sparkle as the tea light heats up the wax, we highly recommend this.

Q. There’s something not right with my candle, where did I go wrong?

A. There are many factors that can influence the outcome of your homemade candles. Fragrance oils can impact a candle, as thicker scented oils require you to wick up to get a hotter burn. It is important to note that the size of the wick may need to change when using different fragrance oils. Also, the room temperature can affect your candles. If the room is too cold, then you can have more issues with wetspots and frosting because your candle will set very quickly. We’ve introduced weekly tips and tricks to candle making on our social media platforms. We recommend going through these to find out why your candle doesn’t look right. Don’t stress! Practice makes perfect.

Q. How do I calculate the burn time of my candles?

A. Weigh the completed candle on a scale, before it has been burned. The weight of the candle jar needs to be subtracted to calculate the true weight of the candle.

Then, light the candle. Leave the candle burning for 4 hours. Blow out the candle after the 4 hours then allow to cool until hard again. The candle needs to be weighed again, removing the weight of the candle jar. You will now have the post-burn weight.

Minus the post-burn weight from the weight of the unburned candle. Divide this figure by the amount of time the candle was burned for. You will now have the hourly burn rate.

To calculate the total number of hours the candle will burn for, you will need to divide the initial weight of the candle by the hourly burn rate.

Amount Consumed (Initial weight - post-burn weight) ÷ Time burnt in hours = Hourly Burn Rate

Initial Weight (minus weight of container) ÷ Hourly Burn Rate = Burn Time. Please note this is only an approximate burn-time. Factors such as wick sizing, amount of fragrance oil and wax type can alter how fast the wax burns. We advise that you test your burn-time before creating candles in large batches.

Q. How are candles burnt safely?

A. Our warning labels are available to purchase here. These are required to be on the bottom of your candles for safety reasons. The instructions include:

● Failure to follow safety instructions may result in fire, injury or smoke damage.

● Never burn your candle when 1cm of wax remains at the bottom of the glass candle jar.

● Burn your candle for only three hours at a time, extinguish, let wax cool, trim wick to 1cm and relight.

● Avoid burning in draughty areas, near open windows or doorways, as a change in temperature may cause the glass to crack or shatter.

● Never leave a burning candle unattended and always burn on a stable flat heat-proof surface.

● Keep away from curtains, flammable objects, children and pets.

Q. I am new to candle making, what are the key terms I need to know?

A. There are certain terms that are necessary to know when learning to make candles, they are frequently used in our tutorials and explanations. The key terms are as followed:

● Wax pool: this is the size of the melted wax.

● Burn time: Is the amount of time it takes for the candle to be burnt all the way to the bottom of the vessel. It is important to calculate the burn-time of your candles, so your customers know what to expect.

● Cold throw and hot throw: “Cold Throw” is how a candle smells before it has been lit. The cold throw will develop its scent over the cure time. “Hot Throw” refers to how a candle smell while it is lit.

● Mushrooming: Cotton wicks can get a build up at the top that is called mushrooming. This build up could be caused by the wick size being too big, and amount of fragrance oils. If your wick looks like its mushrooming, cut the end off before re-lighting.

● Tunnelling: This is a common term used when the wax pool does not reach the edge of the vessel before blowing out on the first burn. This means the wax burns down the middle of the candle and leaves the wax memory with a ring like shape, with excess wax around the rim of the vessel. Candle tunnelling can be caused by using a wick that is too small for the vessel. Incorrect burning, especially on the first burn can also cause tunnelling. The best way to avoid this is burning a candle until the wax pools to the edge of the vessel on the first burn.

Q. Why does my candle have holes on the top?

A. These are called candle sinkholes. They are produced when the wax has cooled down too quickly in the vessel. A way to prevent this is through heating the vessel before pouring the wax or allowing the wax to cool slightly. When they appear, an easy fix can be achieved by using a heat gun and something thin to poke holes into the wax.

Q. Why is my soy candle bumpy on top after burning?

A. Our soy wax is 100% natural. This is a by-product of natural wax and doesn’t affect the performance of the candle. Unfortunately, this problem is out of your control when making soy-wax candles. It occurs when the rate of cooling is inconsistent. For a smooth candle, a heat-gun can be used to melt the top of the wax, this will set with a smooth top.

Q. What is candle tunnelling?

A. Candle tunnelling is very common for candle makers and owners. It is created when the wick size is too small for the size of the container. To fix this have a look at our wick guide to find the right wick for your candle. We recommend you conduct a burn test before making candles in large batches. Another way tunnelling is created is when the wick is blown out before the wax pool has reached the edges of the container. Watch below to see an easy fix on candle tunnelling.

Q. Why is my soy candle frosting?

A. Frosting is a crystal-like layer that forms on the surface of natural waxes. To minimise the effects of frosting, certain things you can do are:

● Mix the melted wax slowly before pouring into the vessel to reduce the amount of air bubbles.

● Warm the container slightly before pouring the melted wax.

● Pour the wax at a lower temperature to reduce the wax cooling too quickly.

● Non-coloured candles (no added dyes or colourants) will reduce the noticeability of the frosting.

Q. How do I prevent imperfections on the surface of my candles?

A. As we know, all natural waxes can have many imperfections when it's set. No need to worry, these are all aesthetic and can be controlled through a few methods as follows:

● Avoid over-stirring as this can create air bubbles in the wax as it sets.

● Heat your candle container slightly before pouring the melted wax to reduce the speed of the wax setting.

● Tap the candle vessel slightly once the wax has been poured to release any air bubbles.

● Use a heat gun on top of the candle once it's cured. Slightly melt the top layer of the candle, this will result in the candle top drying smooth.

Q. I made a candle, but the scent throw is weak.

A. There are many reasons why you may have a low scent throw. Firstly, it can come down to the amount of fragrance oil you add. Another reason may be a lack of cure time. We recommend a cure time of 24–48-hour cure time for paraffin wax candles and a 1–2-week cure time for soy wax candles. Alternatively, the low scent throw can be caused by the room size it's burning in and the amount of airflow. We recommend burning candles in a smaller room with a small amount of airflow to increase your scent-throw.

Q. Why did my candles turn yellow or brown?

A. This can happen when the candles are exposed to direct sunlight. Jars with lids are less prone to this issue happening. Vanilla fragrance oils are known to turn candles yellow; we recommend avoiding using too much vanilla fragrance if you don’t want discolouration.

Q. Do I really need a double boiler to make soy candles?

A. Nope not true at all. You only need an old pot or a new cheap and cheerful one from Kmart or the warehouse or even your local $2.00 shop. The trick is to watch it constantly stand at the stove, stir the wax until it all melts. Do not let the soy wax boil. While you’re at the $2.00 shop be sure to grab a thermometer, to test the heat of the soy wax before you add any natural fragrance oils. Look for a pot with a side pourer. If you can’t find one be sure to grab a silicone pourer to attach to the side of a standard pot. This will certainly make life easier.

You can even use your microwave and the microwave pouring jug if you’re only making 3 or 4 candles at a time. Remember making soy candles is super easy, it’s not rocket science. If you’re after easy instructions check out my other blogs.

Q. Help my candle dye isn’t looking, right? What am I doing wrong?

A. The magic jug – add 100mls of soy wax into the microwave pouring jug. Melt soy wax until very hot. Add required (measured) amount of soy candle dye to the melted soy wax. Keep microwaving in 30 seconds to 1-minute bursts. Stir in between 30 seconds to 1-minute bursts until all candle dye has dissolved completely into melted soy wax. Then add melted wax / dye mixture back into wax pot stir thoroughly to mix.